
Ja, vår tid i Cusco, Peru, inleddes med höjdsjuka. Åtminstone för mig och Milo.
Först ska jag säga att det kommer så mycket mer om Galápagos, men i och med att vi inte hade någon uppkoppling där så får en hel del av det släpa lite efter.
För vi vill ju också berätta om Peru!
Vi inledde denna del av vårt äventyr med tre nätter i Cusco. Tanken var att ta tid på oss för att försöka acklimatisera oss till höjden – Cusco ligger drygt 3400 meter över havet, och vi var länge tveksamma om vi skulle ta med denna region i vår resrutt just på grund av höjden.
Över 3000 meter är ändå en höjd som väldigt många reagerar på.
Men ja, vi bestämde oss för att prova, och att ta allt i lugn takt.
Milo och jag var de som ganska snart drabbades av höjdsjuka, men vi har förstått sen att vi ändå kommit rätt lindrigt undan. Men den första dagen var Milo rätt utslagen av trötthet och huvudvärk, och jag orkade knappt gå tio meter innan det kändes som jag skulle falla ihop, och huvudvärken dunkade. Plus en känsla av att vara lite smått yr/illamående hela tiden.
Jack var däremot helt opåverkad under början av tiden, men vi tror han fick en släng av höjdsjuka senare i Peru när han kräktes några gånger och hade ont i magen och huvudet en halvdag. Patrik kände av viss huvudvärk.
Vår innergård till lägenheten vi hyrde!
Så vi var väldigt tacksamma, av flera skäl, att vi valt att lägga tre nätter i Cusco innan vi drog vidare mot inka-ruiner och så småningom huvudmålet Machu Picchu.
Vi hyrde en lägenhet under dessa dagar, och vi var mycket hemma och bara tog det lugnt. Plus att vi bekantade oss, långsamt, med våra kvarter som visade sig vara helt grymma. San Blas, Cusco – otroligt fin stadsdel som tillhör gamla stan.
Dag tre var det som om jag vaknade upp till ett nytt liv, typ. Efter att ha tagit huvudvärkstabletter i två dagar och alltså knappt orkat gå, i alla fall inte uppför, så kändes det (nästan..) som om jag flög fram på kullerstensgatorna. Milo var också jättemycket piggare efter dessa två första dagar, och då kändes det lite mer som om vi kunde dra igång Peru-livet på riktigt.
Om första dagarna i Cusco:
• Glada att vi hyrde en lite större lägenhet dessa första dagar! Egna sovrum att vila i, medan de som var piggare kunde hänga på nedervåningen i sofforna.
• Också väldigt glada att lägenheten hade tvättmaskin… OJ, vad vi behövde tvätta! Och det gjorde vi, äntligen!
• Lätt chockade över att det var så kallt på kvällarna… Vi hade kollat väderleksrapporterna, jo… men att komma från runt 30-35 grader till kanske 10 på kvällarna – och i ett jättekallt hus, dessutom! Det var lite, eh.. utmanande. Dagarna har varit fina, med uppemot 18-20 grader och mest sol.
• Glad att Patrik redan första morgonen av en slump hittade till marknaden här i San Blas, som efter det blev vårt stammis-frukostställe. Jättefin marknad, där en massa kvinnor säljer färska fruktjuicer och kanongoda mackor och omeletter varje dag.
Vid ingången till matmarknaden
• Glada över att vi hängde på en så kallad ”free walking tour”, en stadsvandring med en kunnig och trevlig guide. Det gav oss en bra kunskapsbas – tillsammans med det vi själva googlat fram – om inka-kulturen, deras sätt att bygga, om Cusco, och mycket mer.
Och sen, när vi acklimatiserat oss och kommit igång med vårt kunskapande om inka-folket så drog vi igång nästa del av äventyret runt om i Sacred valley – inklusive Machu Picchu.
Ja, som ni hör har tillvaron varit och är rätt intensiv ett tag… Längtar efter att få dela med oss mer av Patriks alla fina bilder, och förstås även Milos bilder (han har blivit superintresserad av foto, jätteroligt!)
En avokado på 1,3 kilo! Den blev min på matmarknaden i San Blas för knappt 10 kronor.
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Tråkigt att säga det i efterhand , men för dom som tänker göra samma rutt : bästa boten mot höjdsjuka är en bra karta : planera dom första nätterna under tretusen meters höjd. Machu Picchu är tusen meter lägre än Cusco , och Aguas Calientes – där man sover inför besöker i MP – är flera hundra meter lägre , vilket gör höjdsjuka i princip omöjligt. Ollantaytambo är 2800 meter , vilket fortfarande innebär mycket lägre risk än Cusco.
Hej! Jättebra råd, kan jag tänka mig, för andra i annan situation. Tex om man har kortare tid på sig, vill snabbare till MP, inte vill spendera tid i Cusco, eller liknande.
För oss var det dock aldrig ett alternativ att åka längre än Cusco första dagen, vi hade en lååååång resa från Galapagos bakom oss med flera mellanlandningar, så när vi väl landade i Cusco var det sömn och sen mat och sen lite aktivitet för att komma igång lite – och sen mer sömn som gällde. Vi var INTE ute efter att ta oss snabbt till de andra städerna, tvärtom.
Att vi skulle ha rest vidare samma dag med lokalbussar, taxi eller tåg hade inte alls passat oss, vi (barnen framför allt) blir för trötta av så långa resdagar, och det hade – i vårt fall – troligen drabbat oss mer än den ändå rätt lindriga höjdsjuka vi fick.
Dessutom ville vi verkligen spendera tid i Cusco och är SÅ glada över all tid där!!! Vi la alltså till och med till tre extra dagar på slutet eftersom vi tyckte så mycket om stan (särskilt San Blas!)
Men som sagt, kan nog vara jättebra tips till andra i annan situation!! Tack för detta!!
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